So, in this guide, I’m going to describe the wonders of the suit- why you’re wearing one right now- and, subsequently, how to buy one and get one fitted for you. In later articles, I will go into the details (such as dress shoes, dress shirts, and the like)- but for now, we’re going to talk about one thing: the suit.





The Single Breasted suit is by far the most recognizable suit, and by far the most popular in society today, with a single row of buttons on one side.


Three Button suits are by far the most popular of these- meaning that there are three buttons (and, thanks to tradition, only the top two of those buttons should be buttoned). Two Button suits, in comparison, have only two buttons (and it’s generally acceptable to button both of these buttons).

Vented suits are suits with a “vent” (or cut) on the back of the suit. These typically come in three variations- single vented suits, double-vented suits, and no-vent style suits. Most American styles tend to be Single-Vented, though there is no real problem with going double-vented (or no-vented).


Pant Style is also a large part of the suit style. More modern suits have flat-front pants, which give a clear cut, modern look. Pleated pants feature a fabric fold (typically in the front of the pants) that allow for greater movement, but also often carry the connotation of being made for larger (fatter) frames.


Number of Buttons
A single breasted jacket is usually fastened by 1, 2, or 3 buttons. Anything more than 3 buttons on a coat are usually the domain of the exceptionally tall or overtly fashion conscious and won’t be covered here. All single breasted jackets are designed around a central button, this is to give the jacket structure to help it hang correctly, and so a jacket should always be fastened at the front. In the 3-button, the coat is designed for the top 2 buttons to be fastened normally. On a 2-button coat, you would only fasten the top button, and in the 1-button version, keep the button fastened. Wearing the jacket unbuttoned ruins the lines, and traditionally a gentleman would never remove his jacket in mixed company so when choosing a jacket, make sure you can sit comfortably with the jacket buttoned, another reason to leave the bottom button unfastened with 2 and 3 button jackets.
Variations: Double Breasted Suits



Double Breasted Suits are suits with two rows of buttons, resembling more of a pea coat than a suit coat. These are fairly acceptable in many situations, though they often create a unique silhouette that either flatters or harms the image of the wearer.

Tuxedoes are suits in the very loosest sense, but they occupy an entirely different world, much like tailcoats do. Tuxedoes have unique “rules” for wear and often are much more formal (and much more expensive) than a suit.




Having recently returned to men’s wardrobes as a standalone piece to be worn casually, the waistcoat’s new found popularity means the return of the three piece suit.




A lot of people defer to personal preference when it comes to the amount of buttons a suit or sportscoat should have, but let me say this: when it comes to a single breasted suit, which this section truly applies to, unless you have good reason stick to one or two buttoned suits for 2011 / 2012. In greater detail:


A single button suit currently falls into the realm of both a classic and a fashion suit; the single button has been a trend before now and will eventually go out again (it was notably out of fashion in the 1980s, but then most everything good was out of fashion back then anyway).

Society’s fashion tastes aside what you want to really consider when purchasing a single buttoned suit is this: how tall you are. They might be very fashionable, but a single button has a shortening affect on a gent; generally speaking, the closer to the neck the button is, the taller a gent will look. A single buttoned on a suit is often closer to the waist, making your torso seem smaller. That’s not an issue if you’re 5’10″ or taller, but can be if you’re not.

Take-away: A single buttoned suit or sportscoat can reduce stature and height on a short or stocky figure, so pay careful attention to this detail when trying on such a piece. Best for those over 5’10″ or those whose main aim is to own a suit that is considered fashion forwards as opposed to being a fashionably classic.


My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.


Very much a look of the 1990′s, thought it has been making a come back as a very fashion forwards option where the buttons are sewn on an angle.



Please don’t. I’m yet to see any four button suits which truly impress me or fit in with the current men’s suit aesthetics. Generally speaking, four buttoned suits are the thing of discount wedding stores.

How many buttons? If the suit is bespoke, your tailor should ensure the jacket is in proportion so it is personal preference. If however, you are buying off the rail, 3 button jackets can shorten the length of the lapel giving a squat look on shorter men. 2 button jackets can extend the length of the lapel giving the impression of a longer body.




A notched lapel, or the step lapel / collar as it’s known in British parts of the world, is the most prevalent style of men’s lapels. In essence the lapel has a ‘notch’ taken out of either side. The angle of that notch steps down. Hence you now know both the style and how it has come to have different names associated with it.



This is the on-trend lapel style for 2011 / 2012, with the actual cut again given away by the name: pointed lapel / peak lapel (the difference again comes down to which side of the Atlantic you lean towards). Cutting across the chest, the pointed lapel enhances the much coveted V shape of the male physique, enhancing that elusive masculine quality I’ve referred to throughout this guide.

The only question remains as to what size the peak should be, which is really a question of confidence: how large to you dare wear them? Personally I opt for a natural balance, where the peak sits half way between the top of my arm and the lapel’s natural line. Anything more I find excessive, too 1970s-comeback, and anything less feels pointless.

A style of lapel that features neither a notch nor a peak, but instead is one continuous, fluid lapel. Generally speaking a shawl lapel should solely be worn with a dinner suit, though as a flourish on a sportscoat / sport jacket worn as evening wear it can be very effective.

A white dinner jacket from Ralph Lauren with a shawl lapel. Note that this rounded finish where the shawl meets the top button is not the on-trend cut, but nor is it out of fashion.


Lapel Notch

The lapel notch is the part of the jacket where the collar meets the lapel. As the length of the lapel is core to the shape of the jacket, a higher notch will allow for a longer lapel giving the illusion of a longer body. Most men will look for jacket that makes them look a bit taller, so look for a notch at the clavicle or higher unless you are very tall.

Button Hole

The top of the left lapel, about an inch or so below the notch, should carry a buttonhole for a flower. Quality jackets will have a working, hand stitched buttonhole. Many modern jackets have a fake buttonhole or if it is working a machine stitched one.

Jacket Pockets


Two side pockets either jetted or flap covered. Jetted pockets are the most formal and are usually seen on dinner jackets. Flap pockets are the standard for jackets. The flap was intended to be a functional addition to keep the contents dry from the rain, but tucked in when the wearer is indoors to resemble a jetted pocket. Now pocket flaps are part of the design and as such, may not even be able to be tucked in at all.
Variations on these traditional pockets are patch pockets which are informal and usually seen on sports jackets. Unlike traditional side pockets which have the pocket on the inside of the jacket and are accessed via a slit, the patch pocket is created by stitching a patch on the outside of the jacket.

Ticket pockets are a half or three quarter sized pocket above the right side pocket. These are designed to hold a tube ticket and are usually only found on higher quality jackets.

Hacking pockets can trace their origins to equestrian trends. Hacking pockets are when the pockets are angled, to make them accessible when riding a horse.

The vent is the slit up the back of the jacket. A single vent is the traditional style and is another equestrian detail. The wearer could ride on horseback and still allow the jacket to hang correctly. Modern times have introduced double vented jackets so the modern gentleman can place his hands in his pockets without his jacket parting at the rear to expose the seat of his pants and keeping his modesty.

Jacket Length

A well-fitting jacket is just long enough to allow the wearers fingers to curl around the bottom edge when standing straight. Any shorter will expose the seat of the pants, any longer and the elegance will be lost. Ideally you will be able to pinch the bottom edge of the jacket without moving the angle of your wrist.

Jacket Sleeves



Years ago, it was common to differentiate the silhouette of a men's dress suit in three different styles of custom tailoring: the English, the Italian and the American.
Each suit shape could be identified by its national custom tailoring tradition.

Today, the details of the three big styles are so mixed up that it is no longer possible to separate and identify a certain tailoring style just by the details.

The English suit:

The English style was influenced by the lines of the military uniform, such as the long fitting, hourglass-shaped hacking jacket. The shape was cut close to the body, with a subtle emphasis on the chest and a soft shoulder. The English style of the men's dress suit had the most conservative appearance and was usually worn with a vest.

The American suit:

The 'American look' of the men's dress suit is characterized by a three-button, single-breasted jacket with natural shoulders, fronts without darts, flap pockets, a center vent and trousers with plain fronts. The American style is the most casual men's suit style, and is usually more comfortable to wear than the other two styles.

The Italian suit (European style):

The Italian style of the men's dress suit is the opposite of the shapeless American sack suit.

Characterized by high, squarish shoulders and a short overall length, the jacket has small high armholes to give the chest the length which was taken from the short jacket. The cutting shape was close through the chest and hips, and the jacket was usually single-breasted, with two buttons and high notched lapels. The pockets are flapless and the back has no vent. The trouser has a lower rise and is cut closer to the leg.

The Italian style is a good fitted men's dress suit and is more casual than the English style.







A suit with a good cutting shape should be natural: it should accent a man's figure and correct real problem zones in a decent way.

A man with a small frame should wear a suit with a slender cutting shape, minor or no shoulder pads, a narrow lapel and a trouser cut close to the leg.

A man with broad shoulders and an atlethic frame should also wear a suit without shoulder pads.

A man with a burly frame should renounce on any extension or broadening by the cutting shape of the dress suit.


Suits do not go alone- to have a good suit, you must have at least two shirts to go with it (obviously because buying a suit to only go with one outfit is a little stupid). Accessories quickly turn boring conservative suits into much more than that- and here’s how you do that.

Dress Shirts are a large part of wearing a suit. Dress shirts should fit your body well, and are second only to your suit in importance of being tailored. Dress shirts vary wildly in color, cut, and fit. Typically, you will see four kinds of collars- point, wide, wing, semi-spread, and button-down. All except the very last are appropriate for most formal suits- the last, the button-down, is appropriate only very casually.

Dress shirts also feature two kinds of cuffs- barrel (or “button”) cuffs and french cuffs. Barrel Cuffs are typically seen on shirts, with a single button in a “barrel” around the waist. French Cuffs are much more flamboyant and stylish, and have thicker cuffs coming together, requiring cufflinks.



When you wear your suit, angry fashionistas be damned- you must wear a belt, dress socks, dress shoes, a dress shirt, and MAYBE a a tie. There are rare circumstances when this can be ignored (I’m still personally warming up to the idea of sneakers with suits), but for most standard dress wear, nothing beats the tried-and-true formula.

Button the suit appropriately. This is more etiquette than anything else. When standing, button the top two buttons of the suit. When seated, unbutton the suit before you sit down. NEVER sit down with it buttoned, EVER. Not only is this ugly, it can stress the buttons.

Ties are optional in modern society. Going tieless can be bold and unique. There are still circumstances that require a tie (such as interviews), but going without (with the top button undone) is bold and enjoyable (and less constricting).

Avoid loading down the pockets. Never put excess junk in the pockets of your suit- even in the pants. If you can avoid carrying it, do so.



The fabric you buy your suit in will be on of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.

Wool

The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I’ve seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards a super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150 as it’s often works on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you’ll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.


Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake it’s best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren’t black or grey, and your preference should be towards navy and tan colours. It’s definitely a spring / summer suit (and is great for weddings and other functions of the season) and many a European fashion house, as well as those who tailor in Europe, will have cotton suits amongst their spring / summer range. I’ve seen quality cotton suits sold off the rack amongst the ranges of Zegna and Ralph Lauren’s Black Label.

Linen

So many men simply don’t understand linen, and it’s often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid summer days. Try wearing a cotton or wool suit once the mercury pushes past 30 Celsius / 85 Fahrenheit and you’ll see what I mean. Because of its nature, line makes a great summer suit and colours such as whites and creams and particularly suited.One final note on linen: don’t be scared of linen’s penchant for creasing, it’s all a part of the fabric’s charm.

Velvet

While we’ve looked at desirable fabric patterns for suits below, make a mental note now that there is also room in your wardrobe for a statement cloth – that is, a piece crafted out of a cloth that is itself the attention grabbing detail. The most on-trend cloth for this comes to us courtesy ofmen’s velvet. Follow the link to read more but, in essence: velvet makes a luxurious statement piece suited to evening wear, but most men will find it easier to wear the cloth in the form of a sports coat as opposed to a full suit.

For those looking to invest in a suit that isn’t made in a solid colour, the following are classic suit patterns perfect for 2011 and beyond, but don’t forget that you can also work these same cloth patterns into components of men’s suiting without making it an actual suit; that is, sportcoats, blazers and trousers. In no particular order, these are the dominant suit cloths / patterns available for 2011 and 2012 that sit at the more conservative end of the spectrum.


A mixture of checks, the Glen plaid (or Glen Urquhart plaid) has risen to become the most fashionable of all suit fabric patterns. It is actually a fabric of patterns, meaning that it can be woven into a great many colour and pattern size combinations. Of those, the Prince of Wales pattern is amongst the most popular (the Prince of Wales check is a combination of red, cream, black and gray), and like so many things sartorial derives its name from the late Duke of Windsor.

Glen plaid tends to work best in grey tones, with the checks in lighter shades currently amongst the most popular. It’s an autumn (fall) / winter pattern as it’s best when made out of wool.


Another fabric pattern that has regained popularity of late, the damier check wasn’t invented by Louis Vuitton but has certainly been popularised by the fashion house as a menswear offering all the same.

In essence it’s akin to a gingham, but to call it that would be to turn you off the pattern altogether. Instead, think of it in dark, masculine colours without the white base typical of a gingham check. Because it is a rather busy pattern, however, this is one pattern that lends itself better to a fashionable sportscoat (paired with un-patterned trousers) then it does to a full suit.


Herringbone has become something of the third place pattern in men’s suiting; solid colours take out first place and pinstripes second. While the fashionable fabric for 2011 / 2012 is a Glen plaid, herringbone remains something of the more conservative choice.

Traditionally made from wool, herringbone works best with suits autumn (fall) / winter and is typically produced in a alternating black / white colour combination. While the traditional colour way, this gives an overall bolder look and I’d recommend opting for a charcoal / light grey colour combination if you don’t find the black and white combination pleasing to your eye.


Harris Tweed has been making something of a come back for the past year or two – some put it down to the fact that the BBC opted to dress the latest incarnation of Doctor Who in it. We put it down to the fact that, in an age where everything old is new again, it was simply time for a comeback.

It’s place as a fashionable pattern is unique as Harris Tweed is both pattern and fabric, its fabric being a tweed and its pattern a mixture of herringbone and twill (the latter gives the alternating vertical lines you can see in the picture above).

Best suited to autumn (fall) / winter, Harris Tweed can be worn both as a suit and as a sportscoat.


If you’re one of the many men who have never invested in a suit with a pattern then a pinstripe suit should be your starting place. Easiest to wear in a black with grey / white pinstripe, I’d personally recommend looking to a navy or grey cloth with a white pinstripe to differentiate yourself from everyone else. Do not, however, attempt a lighter cloth with a darker pinstripe.

A pinstripe cloth also provides a great visual trick of making the wearer look taller, so is a must for those men after such an affect.

The rope stripe is the pinstripe’s bolder cousin. Attracting all the sale ‘rules’ of a pinstripe, the rope stripe differentiates itself with a strip that is not ‘pin’ thin – usually the stripe is a few millimetres thick and is finished with a rope like, repetitive pattern.



Naturally, there a number of other fashion trends in 2011. A word of caution however: amongst all of the year’s trends you’ll notice dominant, recurring themes such as the influence of 1970s fashion. Overlook these. Yes, they play some small part in influencing the size of a peaked lapel but they do not, however, have a overarching influence upon men’s suits. At no stage should the trends collide to bring back into fashion bell bottom suits. Suits for 2011 remain about sleek, masculine classics, the more casual trends which we’re also writing about are not.



















 







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