LEHNGA
Stitched as a long flared skirt with a zip at the side, it is made to the measurements of the wearer. The ensemble needs to be slipped in, fasten the zipper and drape the pallu over the shoulders. This is an outfit for ladies who are not comfortable with usual drapping and pleating that the regular saree demands. This style of saree’s pallu has the dramatic effect of the matching dupatta of the conventional Lehenga Choli.
Various types of Embroidery patterns are employed according to the Lehenga Style saree. Bagh, Chikan, Kashida, Kasuti, Kantha, Sozni, Shisha, Zardozi etc. are some of the commonly practiced Embroidery in Lehenga Style Saree.
Bagh is a special kind of Embroidery done by women in Punjab to be worn during festivals and weddings. Bagh embroidery completely hides the base fabric and is a very heavy kind of embroidery. This Embroidery on Lehenga Style Saree is exquisite as often the cloth is barely visible and only the beautiful embroidery is visible. Kashida is a Kashmiri Embroidery type. This is very colorful and depicts Kashmir in its patterns. The other famous embroidery on Lehenga sarees are Kantha work and Kasuti work of Bangalore.
Various rich and exquisite embellishments are used on Lehenga Style sarees patterns which include Silver embroidery, Golden embroidery, Metal beads, Real pearls, wood beads, glass beads, mirror work, lace work, Kundan, sequins, glittering stones, zardozi etc. Mostly rich fabrics like silk, georgette, brasso, brocade, chiffon, crepe etc are used in the making of a Lehenga style saree
The method of draping this type of Saree is quite simple and easy. It's easier and tassle free than draping a regular saree. The plain end of the saree is tucked into the in skirt, making one complete round, similar to wearing a regular saree. At this point, pleats are formed in a regular saree whereas when it comes to a Lehenga Style Saree, one continues to tuck in without making any pleats. In a Lehenga Style Saree, pleats are replaced with embellished gotas or panels at the front, which imparts a flared silhouette that is characteristic of a Lehenga Style Saree. Finally, the pallu is draped over the shoulder like a regular saree.
The only difference between a Lehenga style saree and a regular saree is that it doesn't require pleats to be formed at the front. Few Lehenga style saris come with side hooks too. Hook it and fix technique fits the Lehenga style saree snugly around the waist.
The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the stomach.However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form. The French cultural anthropologist and sari researcher Chantal Boulanger categorized sari drapes in the following families.
Nivi – styles originally worn in Andhra Pradesh; besides the modern nivi, there is also the kaccha nivi, where the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the waist at the back. This allows free movement while covering the legs.
BENGALI and BIHARI style.
Gujarati – this style differs from the nivi only in the manner that the loose end is handled: in this style, the loose end is draped over the right shoulder rather than the left, and is also draped back-to-front rather than the other way around.
Maharashtrian/Konkani/Kashta; this drape is very similar to that of the male Maharashtrian dhoti. The center of the sari (held lengthwise) is placed at the center back, the ends are brought forward and tied securely, then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. When worn as a sari, an extra-long cloth is used and the ends are then passed up over the shoulders and the upper body. They are primarily worn by Brahmin women of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Goa.
Dravidian – sari drapes worn in Tamil Nadu; many feature a pinkosu, or pleated rosette, at the waist.
Madisaara style – this drape is typical of Iyengar/Iyer Brahmin ladies from Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, and Kerala
Kodagu style – this drape is confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka. In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari.
Gobbe Seere - This style is worn by women in the Malnad or Sahyadri and central region of Karnataka. It is worn with 18 molas saree with three four rounds at the waist and a knot after crisscrossing over shoulders.
Gond – sari styles found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body.
Malayali style - the two-piece sari, or Mundum Neryathum, worn in Kerala. Usually made of unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and/or borders. Also the Set-saree, a sort of mundum neryathum.
Tribal styles – often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the breasts.
The nivi style is today's most popular sari style.
A highly embroidered wedding sariThe nivi drape starts with one end of the sari tucked into the waistband of the petticoat, usually a plain skirt. The cloth is wrapped around the lower body once, then hand-gathered into even pleats just below the navel. The pleats are also tucked into the waistband of the petticoat.They create a graceful, decorative effect which poets have likened to the petals of a flower.
After one more turn around the waist, the loose end is draped over the shoulder.The loose end is called the pallu or pallav or seragu or paita depending on the language. It is draped diagonally in front of the torso. It is worn across the right hip to over the left shoulder, partly baring the midriff.The navel can be revealed or concealed by the wearer by adjusting the pallu, depending on the social setting in which the sari is being worn. The long end of the pallu hanging from the back of the shoulder is often intricately decorated. The pallau may either be left hanging freely,tucked in at the waist, used to cover the head, or just used to cover the neck, by draping it across the right shoulder as well. Some nivi styles are worn with the pallu draped from the back towards the front,coming from the back over the right shoulder with one corner of the pallu tucked by the left hip, covering the torso/waist.
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